This is the story of two friends traveling through Africa to create awareness for micro financing. In a little over a year Jeffrey de Visser en Twan Crombach drove almost 60,000 kilometers in their Land Rover around the African continent, visiting over 30 African countries. Would you also like to help Africa? Then lend some money to Africa through Kiva.

Shoestring travel makes for better stories


Every overlander has his own unique style of travelling; some travel in air conditioned luxury from lodge to lodge and eat steak in a restaurant every night; some ride their bicycle around the world, sleep wherever they can and eat whatever is cheap. We are probably closer to the latter. In general, we sleep in the rooftent, because frankly it’s usually the most comfortable option. In fact, even when we are invited to someone’s house, we often just set up the rooftent in the yard. We have on average €5 a day to sleep and €5 to eat, for the both of us, which is generally enough. It’s a shoestring budget for almost all African countries though. That means we usually cook ourselves and buy most of our food roadside. Sleeping is often a bit more tricky; one night on a campsite may blow our budget for two or three days, particularly in touristy areas. That means we wild camp about 17 percent of the time, and spend the night at people’s homes about 36 percent of the time. Staying in someone’s house varies from an expat’s luxury villa in a capital city, next to a decrepit hut in the desert or even in a farmer’s freshly plowed field. That means that more than half the time we stay for free, which has become our guideline on the trip. The rest of the time, we have spent on campsites, in hotels, on hotel parking lots and on boats. Twan keeps track of our overnight stays, which he set out in the graph below.


Financial issues aside, shoestring travel forces you to be bold and adventurous. Many people listen to our adventures in strange people’s homes, in the desert with bedouin or just out in the bush, with awe. Our advice to any overlander would be to spend more money on preparing your vehicle and fun activities, and less on accommodation and food. After all, shoestring travel just makes for better stories…

Highlights of the long way down part 3 – Zambia to South Africa

South Africa

It took us five months and 25,000 kilometres to reach South-Africa. We travelled through some rough terrain, had our share of setbacks and met some very interesting people. In this three-part series we will take you back to some of the highlights of this journey, while we prepare for ‘the long way up’ Africa’s west coast.

‘No water, abandoned, do not stay’

We mainly wild camped in Zambia, although we did sometimes go to a “camp site”. In one particular instance it was marked in the GPS as “no water, abandoned, do not stay.” It sounded perfect! We drove up to find a heavy, rusty boom gate lying on the road, surrounded by thorn bushes. It really was like watching the start of a horror movie, with the sun setting behind us. We drove onto the camp and a scrawny-looking guy walked up to us. The first thing he said after we asked whether we could camp there was: “we don’t have water here.” Having filled up at the last campsite, meaning that we were carrying an ample 80L of fresh water in our tank, this was obviously not a problem. We asked him for some firewood, called a fellow traveller to say that the site was perfect and set up camp. We made a big fire, had a braai, played music into the empty, dry Zambian bush and looked at a massive old baobab in the shimmering light.

‘Heading west into Caprivi’

I walked into the customs/immigration office with two passports while Twan watched the Landy. After filling out two forms, I first handed over Twan’s passport for scrutiny, which was stamped without a problem. Obviously Twan and I, as two big, blonde white guys, look rather alike to any African. I then handed over my own passport. After a long pause the immigration officer, a friendly but stern heavy-set black woman, looked at me and asked where this person was. I simply replied: “that’s me, that’s my passport”. She looked at the passport photo and my face a few times, and then pointed at Twan’s passport in my hand and said: “…and…where is that person?”. I smiled and said he was waiting in the car because the rear door lock was broken. She believed me, but still wanted to see him briefly, before then proceeding to restore the respect of her colleagues by highlighting that I had filled out and signed two forms, which was very wrong. In the end we got our stamps, had a good laugh about it, wished them a nice day and said goodbye.
[Not a valid template]
That afternoon we were looking for a place to sleep, and came across a sign for “bum hill camp”. There was a hand-written note on the sign from another overlander saying that the camp was abandoned, which was a pity since there was lots of wildlife about but they would look for another camp. The note was clearly meant for friends driving behind them, and was quite old. We were stunned that they had not stayed at this free and clearly awesome camp! It had platforms high above the bush that looked out over the river below, there was elephant dung everywhere, hippos in the river and, best of all, there was nobody there. We decided to carry everything we needed for dinner, including the braai (barbecue), on to the wooden platform, which was built around a big tree, over three metres high and complete with rotting stairs. Not long after we had dinner we heard breaking branches, and soon a complete family of elephants walked out from the bush. The little ones were playing, and the matriarch led the troop to the refreshing water of the river in front of us for an evening drink and bath. They continued to walk around us long after dark. That night, from the comfort of the tent, we could hear the hippos lifting themselves out of the cold water and grazing on the shores not far from the Land Rover. Those are the moments you appreciate the safety of your roof tent the most…

‘Okavango Delta, Checkpoints & South Africa in Sight’

We then drove on to Maun, a city that is greatly influenced by South Africans, which meant that things like biltong and Windhoek beer were available. Needless to say, we stocked up on beer and meat and drove on looking for a place to sleep. On driving out of Maun, we came across a particularly Botswanese phenomenon: a foot and mouth disease checkpoint. Here, we were asked if we had any meat with us. Having just bought our first pieces of proper meat from a butcher in a long time, we said “no.” Luckily they believed us. However, for every quarantine area there must be another entry/exit-point on the other side. So, a few hours later, shortly before dark, we drove up to the other checkpoint. Before they could ask if we had any meat with us, we said we really needed a place to sleep because it was getting dark and it was too far to the next city. They obviously forgot about the meat and said we could sleep in the field next to the checkpoint, where we ate our meat and drank beer by the fire between the cows and cow dung. Heady stuff!

‘Half-way there: South Africa!’

Five months after our departure from the Netherlands, we reached South Africa, the half-way point of our trip. Here we will tour the country with our parents for 4-5 weeks before continuing the expedition by travelling back to Europe along the west coast of Africa. Things will get more adventurous now, our wild camping even more wild and our mechanical problems will mean even more trouble! The countries will change from friendly and welcoming, to closed and sometimes hostile. There will be fewer overlanders to get information from, and officials may not be so friendly. It will be off the beaten track at the very best. Keep an eye on the website for what is to come!
[Not a valid template]

Highlights of the long way down part 2 – Lake Nasser to Lake Malawi

Lake Turkana

It took us five months and 25,000 kilometres to reach South-Africa. We travelled through some rough terrain, had our share of setbacks and met some very interesting people. In this three-part series we will take you back to some of the highlights of this journey, while we prepare for ‘the long way up’ along Africa’s west coast.

‘To the end of the world and back’

There is almost no government influence in this region [between Ethiopia and Kenya along Lake Turkana], since the different tribes control the land. They fight over cattle grazing land in what is sometimes armed conflict. The majority still wear traditional tribal dress, which is as exuberant as it is colourful. The locals rarely see “ferangies” (foreigners, often Western people) pass by and, if they do, everyone comes out of their huts to witness the spectacle, wave and, in many cases, ask for a “present” or “gift”, which seem to be the only English words they have picked up! We had visitors to our camp a few times, who were amazed by almost everything: mirrors, fold-up chairs, rooftents, blond hair etc. In general, though, you see more animals than people when driving over the rough track. The scenery varies between a savannah-type environment, with high grass and acacia trees, to barren rocky deserts with the odd bush here and there. The route, although long, is never boring and always challenging.
[Not a valid template]

‘CouchSurfing in Africa’

Honestly, how stupid would it be to drive into one of the most crime ridden cities in the world and stay the night with a random stranger? Pretty stupid right? Well, that’s just what we did. I posted our travel plans just beyond the end of the world, where the phone cables had just about reached, and logged into CouchSurfing. […] One guy, an Indian expat called Gaurav, wrote a message that he had read our website, liked our 1-year adventure around Africa, and was inviting us to stay with him. He seemed nice and genuinely excited to meet us.
[Not a valid template]
We drove up, went up to Gaurav’s apartment on the first floor and sat down on the couch. The first few minutes were a bit uncomfortable, just the normal chit chat and him trying to make us feel at home. We just needed a place to camp, and the apartment complex’s compound with guards and a big gate was perfect, but Gaurav wouldn’t hear of it. It was winter in Kenya and temperatures dip to around 13 degrees Celsius at night. Instead, he offered us a bed inside and slept on the couch himself. His hospitality was almost uncomfortable.

‘This Is Africa: Serengeti, Land Rovers and Endless Hospitality’

Soon after exiting the park, we stopped for lunch. For the first time during our trip we baked Dutch pancakes, while traditionally dressed Masaai people gathered, curious, around us. After lunch we started the car and the fan belt broke, so we decided to slowly drive back to the park gate to fix it. The problem turned out to be more complex than it first seemed, so we were referred to the mechanics that maintain the fleet of vehicles from the famous and exclusive Klein’s Camp, which borders the Serengeti. After a warm welcome from the camp’s manager, Tawanda, the mechanics Markus and Steph soon got to work, although they were unable to finish the same day. After a nice meal, we were generously offered a room, which was without doubt one of the nicest places I have ever spent the night. […] So, This Is Africa: you get into trouble and people will greet you with endless hospitality. In Africa things never go the way you planned, but in the end they always have a way of working themselves out as long as you are patient, open and creative. That Is Africa!
[Not a valid template]

‘Heated debate along Lake Natron’

From the Serengeti National Park we drove along Lake Natron on the only road leading to the Ngorongo Crater. The local government had decided to charge all foreign vehicles 50 US Dollars for each of its three checkpoints, which are on one of the most terrible roads we have seen on the trip. After an argument with the guard at the first checkpoint, we parked the Landy right in front of the gate so nobody could get through. Before long, a local bus stopped behind us and demanded that we move so it could carry on with its journey. We refused. After a heated debate during which most of the passengers got out of the bus, tried to push the car out of the way (in gear – luckily!) and even tried to get in and move it, we got somewhere by saying we were driving for charity and simply did not have the money to pay each municipality to use their road. In the end, we moved our car and a friendly guy from the Wildlife Conservation got us through all three checkpoints. An interesting day in Tanzania.
[Not a valid template]

‘Ngorongoro Crater: zoo or natural beauty?’

We entered the crater as early as possible and drove on the crater’s edge through thick fog. We quickly descended 600 metres down into the crater itself where there was already a large group of other vehicles driving tourists around. This meant that inside in the crater there was no need to look for animals like lions or rhinos; the crater’s floor is so flat (with a salt lake in the middle) that if you just drive to where groups of cars are parked with tourists hanging out of the open roof taking photos, then you will find the wildlife. It felt a little like driving through a zoo, although there is interaction between predator and pray and animals are free to enter or exit the crater if they are able. In this respect, the giraffe was a notable absentee; its long legs and neck mean that it couldn’t enter the crater. In the end, we drove in circles half a dozen times, saw all the animals that inhabit the crater except the leopards, and then left. Back on the edge you get a spectacular view of the crater and its size.
[Not a valid template]

‘A piece of tropical paradise in Malawi’

Lake Malawi is 560 kilometres long and 75 kilometres wide at its widest point. It is famous for the enormous diversity of its tropical fish and looks rather like the sea; you generally can’t see the other end and the lake creates some significant waves, but has no tides and is not salty. After some searching we drove onto an abandoned looking campsite where we were greeted enthusiastically by Oswell. We were given a tour of where we could camp directly on the beach under the trees. The prices on the price list were immediately halved because the facilities were limited. We didn’t care though, the lake was blue, the local fishermen friendly and the sun was shining. The guestbook proved just how abandoned the camp was: the last visitor had left on April 30th. In the end, we stayed for four days and left this piece of tropical paradise with some reluctance.
[Not a valid template]

Highlights of the long way down part 1 – Europe to Egypt


It took us five months and 25,000 kilometres to reach South-Africa. We travelled through some rough terrain, had our share of setbacks and met some very interesting people. In this three-part series we will take you back to some highlights of this journey, while we prepare for ‘the long way up’ along Africa’s west coast.

‘The start of our journey’

After preparing for about a year and a half, we finally left on Sunday 22nd April. Expecting only a small, family departure, we were surprised by the large number of people who had shown up for the occasion. Not only were our families there, including some rarely seen distant cousins, but we were also pleased to see that friends and the ‘dispute’ we both belong to had made their way south to Twan’s home town of Sint Odiliënberg. Twan’s mother, Gerry, had arranged a buffet that provided a wonderful brunch for everyone in attendance. After singing the dispute song, twice, to please our audience, and saying goodbye to our parents and brothers, we drove off, heading south. Of course, you don’t immediately take it in that our departure had become a reality, instead of the dream we had planned for over the past few months; something that carries such weight and with so many implications takes several days to sink in.

‘Africa in Sight’

On our last day in Europe, we made our way to the western tip of the island of Sicily to Trapani, to catch the ferry to Tunisia. However, while we were looking for the right dock, Twan got a call that the ship was delayed for a few hours. Perhaps more importantly, the friendly woman on the phone informed us that we were in the wrong city; our ferry was to depart from Palermo rather than Trapani! So we drove the 100km or so to Palermo, checked in with the friendly and interested officials, spent some time in the city centre and watched the second part of The Godfather on the docks until the ship pulled into port and we could get on. The ship itself was soon filled with countless bodies lying on the cold floor, most of them wrapped in blankets on sleeping mats or anything else remotely comfortable. We decided, although formally forbidden in both Italian and Arabic (neither language I speak or read), to sleep in our car on the lower deck. An undisturbed night was the result. In fact, the only thing making the experience less than comfortable was the deep penetrating sound of the ship’s engines.

The next morning, we went up to the top deck only to be nearly blown off it by the strong winds. However, even through the horrid, almost painful, wind, we got our first glimpse of Africa: the mountains of Tunisia on the horizon, perhaps some 50 kilometres away.

‘Post-war syndrome hospitable Libya’

The next day we got up early and headed down the road towards the Libyan border. Along the way, we passed an enormous UN refugee camp, which gave us a harsh reminder of the situation we were driving into. […] The militia guarding the border all shook hands with us, asked us where we were from and why we were here (“transit to Egypt” sufficed everywhere despite the business visas).

Immediately after entering Libya, the waving, welcoming and honking started. Everybody was delighted to see us. We were in turn delighted to see the first gas station with diesel (commonly called “NAFTA” here), not only because we were were running low, but also to confirm the incredibly low price of around €0.10 per litre! The hospitality was un-ending; if you ask the way to a hotel, you aren’t simply pointed in the right direction, or even given directions for that matter; no, you are driven under escort to the hotel, even if it is on the other side of the city. We were also offered “help” at nearly every checkpoint, and there are many (although you can usually drive through and there is never a line). I am sure they would have been happy to provide us with a city-to-city escort if we had asked. Perhaps they would have used one of the many tanks we saw. Twan could fill entire photo-albums with them, blown up or fully operational, a trophy or a reminder of sacrifice, and Joris was even invited to sit in one. The artillery, as seen on the news (on the back of pick-ups), can be seen at every checkpoint and seems to be ready to shoot down anything that threatens the new, free Libya.
[Not a valid template]

‘He without a plan sleeps in the desert’

Typical for travelling without a plan, an opportunity lay around the corner. We were overtaken by a man who was traditionally dressed in a white gown and driving the most common car in this part of Africa: the Toyota pick-up. […] The car suddenly turned into the desert and, at tremendous speed, we drove down what was barely a track. A moment of doubt was followed by a feeling of adventure. Soon we spotted another truck on the horizon. What followed was a welcome with Egyptian tea (strong tea with as much sugar as water) from six local men from Salloum, none of whom spoke English, who seemed to gather here regularly to get away from their wives at the end of the day. A campfire was made, music played, singing started, photos were shown and videos too (sometimes gruesome images of slaughtered sheep and fights in neighbouring Libya). They immediately seemed to like us, and after an hour or so they offered to let us  stay for dinner. A fantastic night ensued in the desert with large insects, an ever growing campfire and exchanges of culture. We looked at the stars and I was able to see more of them than I had ever seen before. Close to midnight, we opened our tents and went to sleep. A night to remember.

‘German Military Cemetary in El Alamein’

We drove into El Alamein and spotted a German World War 2 cemetery on our route. Aware of the historic significance of El Alamein (being the second place the Gemans & Italians lost a battle, the first of which was the Battle of England), we decided to stop and have a look. When we drove up, we were greated by Moniem, who almost immediately invited us to stay on his family’s land, upon which the cemetery is located. Soon afterwards, we decided to make the most of this hospitality and stay for two days.
[Not a valid template]

‘A piece of paradise in Cairo’

When you drive up to the hill approaching the pyramids you are stopped by the “tourist police” (the sort who want to sell you a camel ride). Even if you don’t want to stop, you have to, because they jump the car and you’d have to kill someone to get through. Anyway, after working our way up the hill and using our windscreen wipers to get the fake-police off the Landy, we got to the checkpoint where we were checked and paid the 3 pounds (about €0.45) extra to go onto the terrain with the Land Rover. It would be an understatement to say I would have easily paid double, since we got some fantastic photos as a result. The visit itself was a bit disappointing, since the area is obviously crawling with tourists and people offering crap to them.
[Not a valid template]

‘Waiting for the boat to Sudan’

We are waiting in Aswan [Egypt] for the ferry to Sudan. The road that leads to Sudan was closed years ago by the Egyptians, effectively marking the end to the first trans-African highway, often referred to as the Cairo-Cape Town Highway. The barge upon which vehicles are transported had left some days before we arrived, so we have had to wait for it to return and for more overlanders with vehicles to arrive so that we can split the enormous cost of chartering the ferry. The wait was relaxing in the shade of the enormous Nubian family house of the Adam family. We parked our car in the front yard, set up our tent and within days the place felt like home.
[Not a valid template]

Expedition apparel uncovered

expedition clothing

Posted from Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa.

Wearing the right clothing in difficult conditions is important. Clothes should be reliable, durable and perform the function they are intended for, like providing warmth on a cold evening in the desert, keeping you cool in the heat or drying quickly in wet conditions. We chose five main suppliers of our expedition apparel, and these companies are briefly discussed below.

Courteney Boots

Tough, reliable footwear is very important in the African bush. It should withstand thorns up to 3cm in length, keep out hot sand, protect your feet from rough objects and keep out water. The Courteney Safari boots have performed excellently in the six months that we have worn them, and we are certain they will last us the rest of the trip too.

Go to Courtney’s website…

Triple Aught Design

This American company designs clothing for people who are serious about the outdoors. Its mission is to create legendary apparel and equipment by blending innovation, classic design and modern technology. We were sent the Amphibious Cargo Pant and the Overland Long Sleeve Shirt. Both are very comfortable, draw moisture away from the body and dry very quickly. They also sent us two rugged backpacks.

Go to Triple Aught Design’s website… warm clothing

Some people think Africa is always warm and sunny. It may be sunny a lot of the time, but that does not mean it is always hot. The early mornings, evenings and nights can be very cold, so warm clothing is essential. supplied us with warm pants and sweaters that hunters and other fans of the outdoors often use while they are out in cold, wet European weather conditions.

Go to… for Icebreaker t-shirts & socks

This online shop provided us with some socks and t-shirts. The socks are short with a reinforced heel, which is perfect when you want to wear your boots with shorts. The t-shirts are from Icebreaker and are made from merino wool, which does not hold transpiration scent and is very comfortable to wear.

Go to…

Eye-wear sunglasses

Even though you will rarely see an African wear sunglasses, the African sun does require you to protect your eyes from UV rays. Eye-wear provided us with Nike sunglasses that have two sets of lenses; ideal for any conditions. We often also wear Polaroid sunglasses as they have polarised lenses that reduce reflections off the road surface.

Go to…

[Not a valid template]

Half-way there: South Africa!

South Africa

Posted from Pretoria, Gauteng, South Africa.

Five months after our departure from the Netherlands, we reached South Africa, the half-way point of our trip. Here we will tour the country with our parents for 4-5 weeks before continuing the expedition by travelling back to Europe along the west coast of Africa. Things will get more adventurous now, our wild camping even more wild and our mechanical problems will mean even more trouble! The countries will change from friendly and welcoming, to closed and sometimes hostile. There will be fewer overlanders to get information from, and officials may not be so friendly. It will be off the beaten track at the very best. Keep an eye on the website for what is to come!

[Not a valid template]

Okavango Delta, Checkpoints & South Africa in Sight

okavango delta

Posted from Maun, North West, Botswana.

After driving almost the entire length of the Caprivi Strip, we travelled down into Botswana along the Okavango Panhandle. The Okavango Delta is the largest inland delta in the world. The Okavango River no longer ends in the ocean, but in the Kalahari, thereby supplying over 15,000 square kilometres of desert with water. Because of the high temperature, the water can evaporate very quickly, meaning that the area is a rapidly changing environment where land can be claimed by water, and retaken by drought, very quickly. The panhandle extends northwest. The area is massive and home to a wide variety of different animals. We did not see many, but the locals told us that if we wanted to do so the current conditions would mean travelling deep into the delta by komoro (a type of canoe), so we decided against it. Botswana is expensive enough without indulging in any luxuries. Lees meer »

Heading west into Caprivi

Caprivi strip

Posted from Katima Mulilo, Caprivi, Namibia.

The Victoria Falls are located in an interesting geographical area, because four countries meet at a single point; Zambia meets Zimbabwe on its southern border, east of the falls; Zimbabwe meets Botswana to its west, and Botswana and Zambia meet at a thin strip of land that extends from Namibia. That 30-km wide strip is called the Caprivi Strip and extends inland between Botswana, Zambia and Angola. It stretches from the Namibian mainland to the point where the Chobe River splits from the mighty Zambezi. It has a history clouded in mystery because it was off-limits for a long period of time during its fight for independence. There were even battles as recently as the 1990s. Today, it is still part of Namibia. The strip is home to four national parks and is famous for its large elephant population. In order to protect themselves from the destructive power of these giants, the people build so-called “bomas” around their homes, which are in essence fences made out of tightly packed sticks or even thorny acacia bushes. The purpose is to convince the elephants that it’s easier to walk around rather than through the homes. So, since we still had some time before we were due in South-Africa to meet our parents for a short holiday (and some time apart!), we decided to take a brief detour through the Caprivi Strip. Lees meer »

Politics in Africa: Politics under a Tree


Despite my interest in politics and political philosophy, I have rarely touched on the subject in my articles for this website. With good reason perhaps, because African politics are as complex as the societies that govern them and a sensitive topic of debate. In my discussion of politics with Africans, I am often faced with either a reluctance to talk about the issues, or a clear, fixed position and an intention to convince. A guide who took us up a mountain in Uganda was keen to discuss politics and how wonderful the present system is with checks and balances and fair elections coming up. He turned out to be wearing a bright yellow t-shirt under his sweater depicting the current president of Uganda, Yoweri Museveni, who has been in power since 1986 and like almost all other African leaders does not allow a serious opposition. Another young Ugandan woman I met criticised the current administration openly, and in particular despised the number of Indian-owned businesses, while also making a case that the rule of Idi Amin, perhaps Africa’s most ruthless meglomaniac, was not as bad as it seemed. The fact that Amin forcefully removed the Indians from his country in 1972 suggested that her views were perhaps somewhat blinkered. In a small town in Sudan, perhaps Africa’s most religiously ruled country, I discussed the country’s policies with a well-educated village elder. He criticised the amount of power the clergy had, the poor state of the economy and the need for change. The recent split with South Sudan was a sensitive issue, although it was clear that everyone was unhappy about it. He did, however, point out that democracy would not work in his village, nor in the country as a whole. Here, he may have a point. In colonial times, a multi-party democracy was often introduced, which replaced traditional rule by local leaders. Although it is sometimes suggested that this was a totalitarian form of governance, this was only true in rare cases, such as the Zulu empire in Southern Africa, the Ashanti society in West Africa and the Buganda Kingdom in Uganda, which still exists today although it should really be regarded as ceremonial. Instead, in most cases, politics was based on consensus and focussed on the collective group rather than the individual. The elders would sit under a tree and talk with unending patience until a unanimous decision was reached. The two altenatives were, and perhaps still are, no better: a winner-takes-all type of democracy or autocracy. In democracy, the winner could prevail by simply convincing a little more than half of the village to support him, leaving the other half unhappy. In a small town, which was often home to the highest form of governance at that time, it would be unwise to leave half of the village unhappy and create a basis for animosity. Autocracy only works if the leader or leaders have a clear basis for power, such as an ethnic majority or an inherited title. But even kings and emperors were replaced if society was unhappy about their decisions, and checks and balances were often in place to control the monarch’s power.

Generally, issues that divide politicians in the Western world could be regarded as minor: tax breaks, immigration, social welfare etc; essentially, in the West the focus is on the balance between making the rich a little richer and the poor a little less poor. Here in Africa, issues are much more fundamental, concerning essential liberties and human rights that we take for granted. Basic freedom of speech may allow me to critise any African leader, but an African may not have the same right. This does not mean that foreigners wear a magic cloak that protects them from injustice when they visit the continent; the next border official may get a nice promotion for stopping a dissident visitor from abroad entering his country after criticising his leader.

Ideas for this article have originated from the book ‘Africa: Altered States, Ordinary Miracles’ by Richard Dowden. Buy the book here.

No water, abandoned, do not stay


Posted from Eastern, Zambia.

From Malawi we quickly had to make our way to South Africa to meet our parents, who were soon flying in for a 4-5 week holiday to see us and get a little taste of Africa. There was still lots to organise before then. In particular, we had to get a mechanic to fix countless problems with the Landy, not least a broken brake booster, which meant that we got some real exercise every time we had to brake! What’s more, the roof rack was, once again, breaking apart under the weight of the roof tent, so we had to find a better way to distribute the weight more evenly. Plenty to do, but first we will visit Zambia… Lees meer »